ALJ Houseplants; photo by ALJ
|
Caring for Houseplants
|
Plants cultivated in containers inside, whether houseplants or not, need care to thrive. At the very least, you place a potted plant near a window, and water it as needed. For some plants, such a routine can keep them alive for decades. But for most plants, extra care increases their growth, makes them more attractive, and increases their ability to flower or set fruit. This brief article shares examples of houseplant care I practice.
|
SOIL. The right soil mix can make or break a potted plant. It matters. If you grow diverse kinds of plants, no all-purpose soil mix will suffice. You must have one mix for certain cacti and succulents; one for certain epiphytic orchids; one for thirsty plants, and so forth. Yes, it is a bother. I have killed prized plants by using the wrong soil mix.
|
LIGHT. My Seattle home is far from the equator, so sunlight is minimal in winter and abundant in summer. Not only the hours per day, but the intensity. Plants vary in that some require shading from direct sun, and others cannot be in too much light. So the grower should place pots accordingly, and move them through the changing seasons as needed. Some plants such as a Begonia, that are okay in a window in winter, will fry in the same window in summer. Also, both in summer and winter, I use supplemental light, in my case mostly from eight T5 fluorescent tubes. Whatever version you prefer, ideally you aim for those called full spectrum, or that try to mimic daylight. Also, I use a mirror to increase available light.
|
WATER. For my plants, I do not use cold tap water. Instead, I fill watering cans, and let them sit on a shelf (hot air rises), to warm up to air temperature. It takes hours. Depending on the plant, its container, its location, and the time of year, it will need more or less watering. Some plants need way more than others.
|
HUMIDITY. In summer, Seattle air humidity in my home is good, but in winter it sinks too low. To compensate for all the hot dry air sent in by heaters, I run a humidifier. I strive to maintain the humidity at 60% but the humidifier is insufficient. So, in winter I place over 20 little containers such as sardine cans and saucers, filled with water. Also, I water the plants lightly and often, mist them, and whatnot. Too dry an atmosphere encourages mites. It also is unhealthy for humans.
|
FERTILIZER. Some plants, I fertilize much, others less. None are never fertilized. I use different kinds of fertilizer and amounts, according to the plant. In some cases, a high-nitrogen fertilizer; in other cases, where flowers or fruit are sought, a high phosphorous one. The rule of thumb is to fertilize only when the plant is growing. Learning about proper fertilizing is not quick or simple. But professionals and serious amateurs know it is essential. At the moment I own five different kinds of fertilizer.
|
TEMPERATURE. Each plant has an acceptable range, but all of them are accustomed to a lower temperature at night. Ideally, I aim for a 10 to 15 degree differential. In practice, at least in winter's depth, or summer's hottest days, I fail badly. It is all I can do these February days to get a 6 degree differential, such as 67 degrees at night, and 73 at day. Note that the floor, where most of my plants sit, is cooler whereas my thermostats are about 5 feet higher. So the temperature ranges I just quoted are lower at the floor. In summer, on the hottest days, I use a portable window-vented air conditioner. I also open and close windows as needed, and use fans. And on the floor is a 2 feet by 4 feet heat mat, that is turned on every morning. When the room becomes warm enough I turn off the heat mat.
|
PEST CONTROL. Scale insects are my worst enemy. Relatively minor for me are mites, fungus gnats, whiteflies, and I have had extremely little mealybug trouble. I use neem oil as a fungicide/insecticide, and also do hand control: spot the bugs, then kill them. Scale are killed with rubbing alcohol. I hang yellow sticky traps which catch flying bugs. I let some spiders reside, in hope that they will eat some pesty bugs.
|
WEEDING. If one grows many different plants indoors, and acquires new plants from diverse sources, weeding becomes a task. Some houseplants make unwanted seedlings. Stray seeds from who knows where also sprout. Fern spores give rise to baby ferns. The best practice is to pluck the little weeds before they get well rooted. Certain weed seeds can remain alive for many years. Some weeds make new seeds in a hurry. For about a year, my most prolific indoor weed has been Mulberry Weed, Fatoua.
|
PRUNING. Overgrown plants need pruning. Dying or dead stems or leaves need removal. If you are trying to take cuttings, or are harvesting parts to consume, that also is a kind of pruning. On some plants, when you prune, a sticky latex exudes. It can be acrid, it certainly is messy, so you must be watchful as to its dripping. Plucking spent flowers, called dead-heading, also occurs. Then there is root pruning. Some plants grow adequately root-bound, others do not. For the latter, you root-prune them and repot them to give them a new lease on life. Living in a house or apartment, to do this neatly, can require spreading a tarp or newspapers, or using a big plastic tub, or the like.
|
TYING & STAKING. The tall plants, and all vines, need careful attention so they do not flop around, getting in the way. It can be a delicate, precise operation to guide the growing tip of a fast-growing vine. One must know the plant and its light needs.
|
In conclusion, houseplant care can be easier or harder than than outdoor gardening, depending on the plant collection and other factors. But the bulk of the tasks are similar. I have not tried making an indoor compost bin, though am sure it'd be possible if I desired to.
Back |
|
|
